Fun facts and after thoughts

Saturday May 15, 2010

US$1.00 buys Thai Bhat / Thb 32

US$1.00 buys Malaysian Ringgit / MR $3.28

Number of flats : Zero

Number of tubes carried : 3

Number of tube and tyre patches carried : 12

Number of spare rear derailluers carried : 1

Number of rainy day rides : 2.5 out of 14 days

Least used item carried : Marmot Precip Rain Jacket

Max speed attained : 165 kmp/h

Max speed attained under own steam (and a bit of gravity) : 64 kmp/h

Number of giant lizards run over : 1 @ 52 kmp/h

Cheapest room : Grand Thara, Surat Thani Thb 400

Cheapest room with breakfast : Grand Thara

Most expensive room : Mayflower Grande, Hat Yai Thb 890

Best value room : Le_Ranong, Ranong Thb 590 + overnight notebook use

Average cost of room per night : Thb 581

Worst value room : Regent Inn, Alor Setar MR$84 / Thb 840

Most expensive meal : RM$24.50 Speghetti + meatballs + choc milkshake + NYC cheesecake @ Secret Recipe Alor Setar

Least expensive meal : Pork porridge, Chumphon, Thb 25 and countless others

Yukkiest meal : Sticky rice, sour fish soup and 1 salted egg, Kanchandit Thb 25

Did I have my fill of tim sum? Yes

Earliest night : 10 pm Phuket

Latest night : 1.25 am Ranong (blame notebook)

Earliest wake up : 5.15 am / there were so many

Latest wake up : 7.45 am / Penang

Most opulent purchase : RM$45 nylon ripstop foldable duffel bag

Most useful purchase : Toss up with Thai made Sunshine Brand cycling arm sleeves x 3 pairs, @ Thb 120 each, and Thinknet Road Map of Southern Thailand. Thb 120

Cubic gallons of crushed ice consumed : Might put 7/11 in the red

Number of 7/11s in Thailand : > 5,000 !!

Best all time free ride : Piyawud’s Speed Racer 2.5 L Turbo Diesel Mazda Pick Up

Best interaction with the locals : Piyawud Clan out shopping with rooster

Worst interaction with a local : Toss Up, between man with Nokia at Sawi bus stop, and bus boy general, Ranong

Number of cycle tourers encountered : 3

Nationality of such encounters : French

Number of non Thai farang encounters : 6

Most number of dogs chasing me at any one time : 7

Most common road kill : snakes

Preferred country to bike in : Thailand

Preferred country to fly home from : Malaysia (Penang)

Towns with adequate bike shops : Phuket, Takua Pa, Ranong, Chumphon, Surat Thani, Tha Sala, Nakhon ST, Hat Yai , Penang

Number of nights without getting on line : 0

Total body weight loss : 2.3 kgs / 5.07 lbs

Self imposed restrain on Penang hawker food : Good, B+

Number of images taken : Canon G 7 : 199 Lumix Lx 3 : 2015

Number of marriage proposals : Zilch

Number of non marriage proposals : Hmmmmm.

$$$ spent : 2 flights/S$174/US$123 + Thai Baht 10,000 / US$308 + Malaysian Ringgit RM$474 / US$142

OK You can rest now.....

Penang to Singapore: Homeward Bound

Friday May 14, 2010

Had a very relaxed morning looking to buy one of those rip stop nylon folding duffel bags for all my stuff as I did not feel like packing the panniers for a flight. At a small back lane rife with litter I see a huge crowd lining up for something that must be yummy. Looked like coffee and toast and soft boiled eggs. Gary from the bike shop was there with 2 nubile and lanky girls with funny tan lines on the arms and thighs, just like me. At least let me pay for BF I said, in return for the bike box and getting to know lanky girls with funny tan lines.

With BF, goodbyes and duffel bag done, as per usual, I always like to lie flat and ponder over the whole trip, the good the bad and the ugly, while staring blankly at the ceiling and slow spinning fan.

As the flight was 1715 hrs and check out was extended to 1300 hrs, and it is just 1000 hrs now, I figured vegetating till 1500 hrs when the taxi arrives, would not be productive. I go down to the palatial Chinese 70s inspired decor (read : tacky as hell) lobby to chit chat with Mr Hong, who vehemently denies that he’s the owner of the Hong Ping, lest I have kidnapping plans for a small time tycoon like him. He’s the smug one who kept the TV remote for 202.

 

CEO of the Hong Ping chain

We discuss everything Penang and I got some pretty good insights. He told me not to come during year’s end. Prices are doubled and they still have to turn away guests. I did that once in 1998 and learnt my lesson. There’s a massage place in front where a coffee shop used to be. The one that Muslim men are banned from and have to go all the way to Hat Yai for their jollies.

How did I know, asked Mr Hong. Well you see, in the last millenium, more precisely 1989, when I was a bike touring virgin, me and 3 friends stayed at the venerable Hong Ping. Sleep was not easy as when any car passed by, the whole front room would rattle. NO AC or TV remotes in those days. Back to the center for muscular and joint relief. Malaysian MR$50/ or abt US$15 per hour base price, more for hanky panky. After that duffel bag, I am just MR$45 short.

Being a majority Chinese state in a majority Malay/Islamic country has it’s challenges too. Every business sign has to have a Malay translation, which cannot be smaller than 50% of the English one. So Emma’s Boutique will have ‘Butik Emma’ under it. Or John’s Restaurant is followed by ‘Restoran John’ Good times for signboard makers. A tad confusing for English readers.

Also of interest are the famously infamous ‘Khalwat’ or ‘close proximity’ laws. Who knows, if you fall out of love with your bike and in love with a local, research like this IS vital,

‘Know Your Rights!’ http://www.wao.org.my/news/20030104knowrghts_khalwat.htm

In the meantime, mention Penang to any one, and you’ll be asked what are you going to eat / have eaten there? It actually makes sense to start a trip in Penang and cycle off somewhere just to burn off those calories.

Choose your own 'slop'

Wantan mee @ midnight

Blood red tandori chicken

Penang: Winding down

Thursday May 13, 2010, 28 km (17 miles) – Total so far: 999 km (621 miles)

For the first time in as many days, I had the luxury of waking up at a very ‘late’ 7.45 am. Since the start of this trip, every morning was a routine of wake up, sit up, look around and wonder, “Where am I?”

Check windows and look for daylight or rather the lack of it on those 5.45 am mornings. Funnily enough I couldn’t sleep any more past 8 today, so I decided to stare at the ceiling fan. I do have air con, which in combo with the fan takes care of drying laundry every night.

Komtar towers above Georgetown

Very looking forward to not packing up and ride to the next destination. Then I hit the TV remote. Nothing. Check power. Still nothing. Kaput. Changing rooms was OK with the reception. Trouble is, with all the stuff that I have spread all over, a room on the same floor would be nice.

No, none, walk one floor down to 202. OK. Transfer everything. Check TV. It works, very well, more channels even, but the channel buttons are missing. Went down to reception again, for the third time. After he’s had his fun, he smiles and takes out a Samsung remote bearing Room No 202 and hands it over.

If I feel like it later, I might let out some air from the tyres of his new Honda Accord in the parking lot.

Georgetown is a walker’s delight. The morning markets, old colonial shophouses, back lanes and side streets are a microcosm of everyday life, of the locals whose urban surroundings haven’t changed much in the last 100 years. Putting aside traffic congestion, the tourists poking their noses into everything and a cluster of backpacker related services, life has been the same for decades.

Like Singapore, the ethnic races of the Chinese, Malay and Indians and others that have been thrown into the mix seem to co exist just fine. Racial tensions of the past have died down and should stay that way since hey, there’s some fine food to be savoured from each other’s ethnic group. Penang like Singapore has also a majority Chinese population, so the city is teeming and buzzing with shops and trading at all hours.

One fantastic difference from Thailand though, is that everyone manages a smattering of English, because of tourism, so I like most other visitors, felt right at home.

Durian season is here

Recently put on the UNESCO World Heritage list, Georgetown is booming with new guesthouses, restaurants, beautifully restored temples, mosques and churches for the three main faiths, and you guessed it trinket and T shirt shops. And don’t forget lightning fast internet with everyone on Facebook. Seriously, last night the girl next to me was typing so fast and hard, it sounded like heavy rain on zinc sheets, I mean on the keyboards.

A downside of Skype is that Mr Dreadlocks sitting next to me is loudly talking to this girlfriend back in Reading, England on how much he misses her and sending virtual kisses her way. Before long everyone knows how much her garden is blooming, when she’ll inherit the house, and her shoe size. God almighty, if you have to smooch a public computer screen and hoping that the boys in the local pub aren’t going for your GF, why on earth did you leave her and go backpack around the world, alone ????

To meet more girls that’s why !

I am not against independent travel. Or Skyping. My gripe here is the inconsiderate volume of the conversation, that’s all. Bobby’s trigger finger is getting twitchy already.

 

You can ride around the island on Rte 6, in a matter of hours, there are some steep hills in the remote west, after the flat northern beaches which were hit by the 2004 tsunami also. While just riding unloaded looking for breakfast and lunch, I managed a leisurely 28 kms, with an interesting afternoon at, www.sitigun.com an extremely bicycle friendly place. Bicycles parked inside on a bike rack. That’s a first.

I had wanted to ride some more to the beaches about 10 kms away but got side tracked at the venerable Eastern & Oriental Hotel downtown. It was literally a step back into time, as you can tell from their guest list comprising even Joseph Conrad and Mahatma Ghandi.

www.e-o-hotel.com/eoh/index.htm

www.hetchins.org/100.htm

Last stop was at Cycleon Cycles to ask for a box. The nicest of nice guys, Gary Yap trained at UBI in Ashland, Oregon. http://www.ccipg.com.my

Great, no charge too, then comes the usual moving spectacle. Everyone gawking at a moving cardboard box, as I gently navigate my way back to the Hong Ping, with a clear view only my right.

Vestiges of British rule

 

Alor Star to Georgetown, Penang: A nice finale

 

you see what I see without sweating

Wednesday May 12, 2010, 108 km (67 miles) – Total so far: 971 km (603 miles)

Today’s ride was a fitting end on this journey south, overcast and cloudy and even a shower on the last 20kms into Penang Island. Started with riding 10 kms out of Alor Star, due west to the coast towards Kuala Kedah, jumping off point to Langkawi Island. Then a quick left into K1 which is mostly straight for the first 40 kms. Many schoolkids on bicycles, some trying to start a race. Much of the route was tree lined and the shade was very welcome, after yesterday’s sizzling heat.

Opening my panniers after each ride, stuff like shampoo and toothpaste are still warm to the touch.

Some small hills to roll over after the village of Yan, as I pass the flanks of a huge granite outcrop of Gunung Jerai at the halfway point. Reaching the elusive Tanjong/Cape Dawai I keep an eye out for the town jetty. Then it’s a quick RM$12 ferry ride across the mouth of the huge Merbok River to Merdeka Beach on the opposite bank.

 

Philippe's fully loaded bike

Crept up behind a French couple on fully loaded ‘De Silva’ touring bikes on a world tour. They started in Mongolia and are making their way south. We agreed that after Thailand, Malaysia was getting to be a bit more expensive, and Singapore, well is on par with New York or London. They were keen to find out ferry routes to Australia, saying that their bike trip was getting a bit too routine and held no more excitement as when they first started. They were stopping at Sungei Petani just a few kms on.

 

Socks and shoes off less I get wet. The clear waters were a welcome relief and I was severely tempted to take a swim even, but there was another 65 kms or so to go, so off to more plodding. I am taking the straightest route to Penang , no deviations inland as the locals would suggest each time I asked. You’ll understand why, tomorrow.

Across the huge Merbok river mouth

Just 10 kms from Butterworth into the home stretch and a car ferry crossing into Penang, things get a tad confusing. I am supposed to be on the old trunk roads, but no the clever new signs to the ferry lead me on to a 6 laned highway/bypass and into a container terminal. Malaysian road signs are something else. Even when driving, you’ll directions after the fork in the road and not say 100 meters before so that you can make a decision. I follow traffic off the highway into a turn off and sure enough a small sign says ‘Feri’ or ferry in local lingo. A really smart cop here tells me of a shortcut, against traffic and over some railroad tracks, and on to the ramps for the ferry. Bet he uses it a lot.

The ages old ferry service running into Penang still operates 50 year old ferries from the mainland to Penang. I rode into one just in time before they raised the ramps. You get into Penang free, but have to pay when you’re on board leaving the island. While there was still some daylight I went to the city’s two huge bike shops to secure a box for the flight home. I shall leave my credit card in the room, as during my cursory glance into the shops, some bike accessories were already calling out to me. Look, look…..buy.

 

Backpacker central, Chulia Street, Georgetown

 

I am holed up here tonight, but ah the street food just outside. Really glad also for my super comfy Keen walking shoes. They will be earning their keep, as exploring Georgetown on foot deserves a good 2 to 3 days. I’ve done that before, and having a bike handy will cut that time in half.

 

Tempted to try the ‘Old Trafford Burger Shop’ Yes Man U fans can get a taste of the local mystery meat even at midnight, but I shall pass having sat down at three places already and will be contributing later to the coffers of 7/11 Malaysia. The lure of crushed ice and mango juice is a big deal for the lone cycle tourist vegetating at the Hong Ping.

I look out the window and people are still eating at the hawker stalls down on Chulia Street. It’s 12.25 am.

A couple of new places to consider, rooms are cheap but with the all important AC and bathrooms are out back (more for en-suites)www.huttonlodge.com 

www.oldpenang.com

 

 

Phuket to Penang. The H is silent

 

Pronouncing it phonetically as in ‘Foo-ket’ or ‘Phoo-ket’ is dead wrong. A sure sign of being a new visitor. It might sound vulgar even, or embarassing if too much saliva hits a total stranger. Most people get by with ‘Poo-ket’ although some Thai purists say it’s more like ‘Boo-ged’ So the silent ‘H’ should be gone with the ‘P’ replaced by a ‘B’ I shall have to do an in depth study once I am on the ground there.

The island is Thailand’s largest at 800 sq kms. With a million and a half tourists inundating it’s shores each year, Phuket is very touristy, pricey and tourists outnumber locals 3 to one. If you’re on a touring bike, you might not get much cycling done, well maybe just riding to one of the 15 white sand beaches on the west coast, or packing your bike to switch hotels. As a total landlubber, I’m not too intrigued by beaches and the goings on above and under the water, but Thailand has some beautiful pristine coastlines and research shows that the remoter ones are not on Phuket. Cycling up the lush Andaman Coast in search of ‘remote’ will be the added bonus.

 

Phi Phi island

A beach on Phi Phi island near Phuket, scanned from a Fujichrome Velvia slide, circa 1993. The ‘h’ in Phi Phi is also silent

As I’m landing at Phuket International at high noon and assembling the bike and have to figure out lunch, I might as well ride south to Phuket’s old town just some 30 kms away. An easy first day, in search of a nice room, tasty street food, into one of the malls for dessert and an exotic bike shop or two, to jump start this tour.

You can start your very own virtual one here, www.mapjack.com

Select Phuket from the list of Thai cities, or if you prefer, San Jose among others, from the USA list.

Riding south into town is actually going in the opposite direction, as my plan in the coming days is to head up about 400 kms north to the Isthmus of Kra, close to the Burmese border, veer east over the mountains to the Gulf of Thailand and then south back to the Thai Malaysian border and eventually Penang Island. As a kid, our family spent many a vacation on Penang’s northern beaches at an aunt’s beach house, so riding into Penang for the first time will be bittersweet.

My partner in grime above, Surly Shirley